May 31 -- Canyon de Chelle

We drove here the afternoon of the 30th on a whim after taking a morning hike at Chaco. Again, the drive was quite beautiful with red and pink cliffs and interesting rock formation, and moved us out of New Mexico and into Arizona. Got in at 7 pm and stayed in a motel. Canyon de Chelle (pronounced Shay)is a long canyon with sheer walls up to 1000 feet high. It is farmed by Navajos. Kit Carson killed many and drove the remnants out on behalf of our 19th century Indian policy and sent them on a 300 mile march on which many died. They were allowed to return later in the century and have remained there ever since. We drove the road on both sides of the canyon and looked down into it at various viewpoints. The Spider Rock at the end of the canyon is the highlight; quite impressive and of great spiritual significance to the Navajo.

In midafternoon, we took off for Kenyata, where we will tour Monument Valley, the place that many of the cowboy and Indian TV shows and movies of the 1950s were shot. One of the rock formations is even named for the director John Ford. Again, the drive was full of spectacular scenery, including the first two in this blog (one called Church Spires, you will know which one, I am sure). This place might be hot, but it is eye candy to be sure. In fact, it is only in the low 80s, but never a cloud in the sky and very little shade. It seems hotter, but is quite comfortable at night.

May 28-30 -- Chaco Canyon

The drive to Chaco was one of the most beautiful we have ever taken. First it took us through the Rio Grande valley south of Taos, and then through painter Georgia O'Keefe country of multi colored mesas and buttes. It went on for about 40 miles and was spectacular. The drive into Chaco required a 13 mile trip over a badly washboarded dirt road. Pretty rough. Knobs on drawwers and assorted screws shook loose during the trip. The Chacoans, about 850 to 1300 AD, had quite a culture and have left substantial buildings as high as 5 stories made of stone and covered with plaster mud. The mud is all gone, but the stones and buildings remain in various states of preservation. We took lots of hikes, one of which included a 1/2 mile canyon wall filled with pictographs. We also went to an evening program on the astronomy of the Chacoans, and got to see a crystal clear Saturn through a very large telescope.

There was another Aliner in the campground, but we never managed to speak with them. We did meet some nice folks from Irving TX, and the wife was trying to convince the husband it was time to move up from a tent. She liked our camper.

May 26 -27 in Taos

The weather here and in Santa Fe has been relentlessly sunny and windy, but gets pleasantly cool at night. Tonight (May 27) has been the first late afternoon and evening with substantial cloud cover.

Visited Taos Pueblo, for which there is a picture attached. Quite different from the Lakota Sioux where we have worked. These folks take meticulous care of their homes; most put a new coat of adobe on every year to inhibit deterioration of the structure. We walked through the central Taos area around the plaza; it is very nice. One of the stores had an actual lunch counter, which brought back memories of our youth. Later we visited the Taos Art Museum, located in a beautiful adobe house with paintings mostly of the Taos area. Quite nice. All the woodwork was beautifully carved.

Today we first visited the Earthship house, which is self sustaining wrt energy. Walls are built with cans and bottles and used tires, all packed with mud and covered with adobe. There is a picture attached. And they apparently let dogs drive there (Sue took the picture). Later we took a circuit scenic drive through the mountains that surround the city, during which we passed a beautiful Vietnam Veterans memorial created by the father of a soldier killed in Viet Nam, and finished with a trip to the Millicent Rogers Museum, featuring jewelry, pottery, baskets, and paintings, all with southwest themes.

We are leaving bright and early tomorrow for Chaco Canyon, hoping to get a camping spot. No WiFi there, so no further posts until some tine after Labor Day.

May 25 - Balloon ride and up to Taos

Winds died down and they picked us up at 5am for our balloon ride. It had to be one of the coolest things we have ever done; other than the propane tanks burning and the occasional comment from the pilot or the other couple on the flight, it was very quiet throughout the 6:45 to 8am flight. We were up about 1000 feet and down brushing the pinon trees. We took both still and movie pictures, and two of the movies were like the To Fly movie that used to show at Air and Space Museum, where you come up to a cliff edge and suddenly everything drops away. In one of the pictures posted here, you can see the shadow of the basket and the people in it.

We then packed up and drove the high road to Taos. It was pretty. Got there midafternoon, and winds were about 30 mph. Had to be very careful setting up the Aliner so that it did not blow the two top halves of the A apart; that would have ended the trip. The winds tend to die down in the early evening (as they are now while I type this). Went food shopping and drove to the Rio Grande Gorge about 5 miles down the road. Quite impressive, but got no pictures; was all in shadow by the time we got there.

May 24 - no balloon ride and a scenic drive

Were supposed to ride a hot air balloon this morning, but heavy winds forced cancellation after we got up at 4:15 am. Back to bed, then took a long scenic drive in the Jemez mountains. Beautiful country; the pine smell permeated the air. Took one short hike to a waterfall, but mostly enjoyed the country. Finally dropped down to Jemez Springs, which took us through a multicolored series of canyons and mesas as the altitude decreased. A very spectacular journey which also included a stop at Valles Caldera, a huge area in which a volcano collapsed leaving extemely large meadows and volcanic cones spread over miles. Is a National Preserve, one of the new ways to preserve open space. This was a huge private ranch donated for public use. Will post some pictures another day. We move to Taos tomorrow morning, and arise again at 4:15 for the balloon ride. For the first time since we have been here, the winds have virtually disappeard, so we are hopeful.

May 22, 23 - Santa Fe and Tent Rocks hike

Toured the Santa Fe State Historical Museum on the 22nd; gives a very good sense of the struggle between Indians, Spanish/Mexican, and English for control of the area. Pretty candid about the abuse of the Indians over the years. Went to lunch at Cafe Pasquale, which was really good. Best was we sat at a community table, and the guy next to me lives in Santa Fe. When I told him about visiting Los Alamos and how disruptive and different it must have been to be plucked from urban environments, he told his story. Moved to Los Alamos during the war at age four. Dad died in 1950s. Mother died six months ago, and just before she died explained they moved there for the Manhattan Project. Since father was naval officer, not physicist, the kids were never certain about the story. It was pretty interesting.

Drove up to Sandia Peak, 12,000 feet. Impressive view. On the 23rd, hiked Tent Rocks, and it has to rank as one of our ten best hikes. Incredible rock formation, a slot canyon, and a 360 degree view at the top of mountains, mesas, multiple colors; it had it all.

May 20-21 Santa Fe, Bandelier NM, Science Museum

On Thursday we went to downtown Santa Fe. Lots of adobe buildings and shopping opportunities plus art galleries. Friday we went to Bandelier National Monument and hiked to see Indian ruins set among the cliffs. They are very impressive. There are many ladders to climb and caves to enter. An extra half mile from the main trail is a kiva set high in the side of the cliff. You climb to it and can enter the kiva. One of the attached pictures is taken at that site. Then we went to Los Alamos and toured the Bradbury Science Museum. It tells about the Manhattan project days, both the human and the scientific side. Also much space devoted today's work at the national lab. A very impressive museum. And great mountain scenery to drive through to get to both places.

On to Santa Fe - May 19

Weather was terrible this morning -- raining and warnings of hail and severe thunderstorms. At breakfast, we ran into three French men from Paris who are motorcyclng old route 66 from Springfied, Missouri to Los Angeles. We managed to communicate a bit, though their English was no better than our French. To start the day, we got new tires for the RAV4; the other were down to the warning strips. An hour on the road near the Texas border, the weather began clearing. West of Amarillo, we saw a huge windmill farm in the distance that went on for about six miles. Quite impressive. The rest of the day it was sunny. Upon entering New Mexico, it got windy, blowing us around quite a bit. We decided to continue on to Santa Fe, and arrived at our campsite one day early. Fortunately, the site we were to occupy was empty.

Memphis to Weatherfore OK -May 18

No pictures today; it was all driving. Into Arkansas, a state we have never been in. Lots of green, lots of water, some hills, altogether a nice trip across the state on I40. Oklahoma is also very green with rolling land. Lots of cattle. In fact we shared a 21 ounce T bone for dinner at the T Bone Restaurant on I66. Old 66 sits right next to the interstate here in Weatherford. Last time we had a meal in OK was in 1971 and we had to join a club and have dinner in the bar in order to have a drink with dinner. Apparently, the state went wet in 1988. However, it is curious that the restaurant had only lite beer on tap. Owner said people just will not buy regular beer on tap. Local customs are strange things. This area had a terrible hailstorm a few days ago that did substantial damage; baseball-sized hail. The news had pictures of kids standing neck-deep in what looked like baseballs. That would have put a quick end to this trip had we been caught in it. We did 530 miles on this leg of the trip.

Memphis, May 16, 17

We visited Mud Island on the 16th. It has a museum about the Mississippi River and environs. And a 5 block replica of the river from Cairo, Illinois to the Gulf, built to scale, depth, width with the history of many locations discussed on plaques. Water runs through it, kids play in it. It is very interesting and a happening place. Visited Graceland (see Elvis' gold records), which was a trip back in time, and the National Museum of Civil Rights that is housed in the Lorraine Motel where MLK Jr. was shot. The wreath on the motel railing is the spot he fell. It is a terrific museum; begins with Nat Turner right up to the present. Really brings back memories.


We are now between Oklahoma City and Amarillo. Santa Fe on Thursday morning.

First day, May 15

No pictures today; it was all driving. Off by 6am from home. Down I81 through Virginia and into Tennessee. I81 was not nearly as choked with trucks as it usually is. Drove to the outskirts of Nashville, about 630 miles, 12 hours with several stops along the way. Somebody pulling an open trailer cut us off in Knoxville and we were lucky not to have the trip end right there. Good to get out of the DC area; we have an acceptable motel room in Lebanon TN for $39 plus tax. Could hardly believe it. At dinner we sat next to several Red Cross disaster relief workers, easily identifiable in their sort-of-uniforms with a big red cross on the back with small American Red Cross lettering. The manager comped them; still a lot of relief work going on here. On to Memphis tomorrow to see the National Civil Rights Museum and, of course, Elvis. Maybe the King will be there.

More pictures of grandkids

Jonah and Kailas play Cariboo with Mommy. Not yet two, they share pretty well. Time will tell.


Emil really enjoyed that chocolate bunny.

Visit with grandkids

Papa has a leisurely meal with Jonah and Kailas. Oh, are those two words oxmymorons?Emil rides Tyrannosaurus Rex.